The City of Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Spaces
Every 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds form.
It is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with plump purplish grapes on a rambling allotment situated between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just north of Bristol town centre.
"I've noticed individuals concealing illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who runs a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He's pulled together a informal group of growers who produce vintage from several discreet city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and community plots across the city. It is too clandestine to possess an official name so far, but the collective's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.
Urban Vineyards Around the World
To date, the grower's allotment is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and more than three thousand vines overlooking and inside Turin. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them throughout the world, including cities in Japan, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens help cities stay greener and more diverse. They protect open space from development by establishing long-term, productive farming plots within urban environments," says the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in cities are a result of the earth the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who care for the grapes. "A bottle of wine embodies the beauty, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a urban center," adds the spokesperson.
Unknown Polish Variety
Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. If the precipitation comes, then the birds may seize their chance to feast once more. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he comments, as he cleans bruised and rotten grapes from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Activities Throughout the City
The other members of the collective are also taking advantage of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden overlooking the city's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from approximately fifty plants. "I love the smell of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she says, pausing with a basket of grapes resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the vehicle windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her family in 2018. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from this land."
Terraced Gardens and Natural Winemaking
Nearby, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated over 150 plants perched on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a city street."
Today, the filmmaker, 60, is picking bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from lines of vines slung across the hillside with the help of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can make intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a glass in the growing number of wine bars focusing on low-processing wines. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly make good, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's reviving an old way of producing wine."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces into the liquid," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a container of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and subsequently add a lab-grown yeast."
Challenging Conditions and Creative Solutions
A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who inspired his neighbor to establish her vines, has gathered his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across two terraces. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on regular visits to Europe. But it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," admits the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable local weather is not the only challenge faced by winegrowers. Reeve has had to install a barrier on